Frequently Asked Questions
- Legacy Industrial’s variety of kits (epoxy, polyurea, metallic, etc...) Our epoxy kits are born from coating formulas field proven in the roughest industrial settings for the last 30 years. Our epoxies are Cyclo-Aliphatic, better tolerance to moisture, weathering and more impact resistant than other products.
- Our HD Epoxy formulations are designed for “easy rolling”, no squeegee needed in our kit. Making it easier for the DIY user. Our Nohr-S Polyurea kits are super easy to use and dry fast!
- Don’t worry about measuring sticks or measuring buckets, you don’t need them with any Legacy Industrial coating kit. Mix and roll, nice and easy.
- We offer many colors! (12) colors to choose from. All are in stock every day.
- Steel Cans. Our products arrive in easy to use, durable American made steel cans. Other manufacturers use inferior plastic bags or China made cans. American steel costs more and it’s worth the cost to our customers!!
- Soft Skid grip additive, much easier to clean and apply than aluminum-oxide, supplied by other companies. Soft Skid won’t cut your bare feet.
- Green!! Our HD kits are low smell and low VOC. The right choice for a safe installation.
- Support. We monitor our e-mail and voice-mail 24/7/365. A Legacy Industrial employee will help you after-hours, leave us a message and we will reply.
- Fresh Epoxy!! Yes, it matters. Epoxy that lingers on store shelves or warehouse racks for too long can crystallize. We send you BATCHED product when you order, no inter-mixing of units required.
- Price. Compare our pricing. We are not always the cheapest. However, you are working with a TEAM that has an unparalleled knowledge base. Most internet coating retailers have very little actual EXPERIENCE with the products they sell. People buy from Legacy because of our people and what they know!
Yes, if you are doing a coating project in your garage, basement, warehouse, or food manufacturing facility you need a primer! Some manufacturers don't recommend a primer because they don't have one. We do. Why a primer?
- A primer soaks into a properly prepared floor, deeper than a base coat can.
- A primer will seal the surface, allowing the base coat to look more even.
- A primer will increase adhesion to the substrate.
- It will decrease the likelihood of “outgassing” to the basecoat.
- It will decrease potential delamination.
- It will increase the overall thickness of the coating system.
All epoxy-coats require a primer. Investing hundreds of dollars on your floor without a primer is like building your house without a foundation!
All high performing products (better sealers, epoxies, urethanes & polyureas) required a proper preparation prior to application. Pressure washing is NOT proper preparation.
Acid Etch (muriatic/hydrochloric acid):
Pro: Least expensive, easily accomplished. Con: Acid is dangerous, does not address laitance in substrate surface, not consistent, PH issues possible.
Diamabrush head mounted on a floor buffer (Legacy favorite):
Pro: Light weight, easy to operate, low cost rental or purchase. Con: Not as consistent as a shot-blaster, not able to accept down-pressure, dust containment, may not be effective on power-troweled floors.
Diamond Grinder (best for power-troweled or coated floors):
Pro: Aggressive, able to add down-pressure, low cost rental and available. Con: dust containment, diamond tooling is expensive to rent in some cases.
Pro: Best method for consistent prep, Adjustable profile, excellent dust containment, easy to operate. Con: Not able to rent, very expensive to buy, typically have to hire a prep company to accomplish.
Pro: When extreme removal of thick coating build-up is required or a textured surface is desirable. Easily rented. Con: Leaves heavy lines in the floor that require diamond grinding or resurfacing to remove.
Planetary Diamond Grinder/Polisher:
Pro: Fast removal of coatings, excellent prep results. Con: Cost to rent (if able to find), size (over 500 pounds) and power requirements (3 phase power required).
- Open all boxes and inventory your products, double-check coverage too
- Always use cordless drill and proper mix-wand (3 mins minimum on slow)
- Keep some rags and proper solvent handy
- Using a tarp, make yourself a "mixing station" adjacent to work area
- Standard Epoxy Primer is rolled from a paint tray/pan
- Solids Epoxies (HD/SD/Metallic Epoxy/etc...) are rolled from the floor (never leave in bucket)
- Urethanes, Polyaspartics are rolled from a paint tray/pan
- HDGrip-Soft-Skid is mixed into the last coat, not broadcasted
- Flake, if used, is best applied by throwing straight UP, never sideways or down
- Never coat when rain is imminent
- Hot temps may decrease working time, Cold temps will extend working time
- Keep your new floor clean by damp mopping once a month
This Concrete Acid Stain Calculator is designed to determine how much Concrete Acid Stain, Concrete Sealer, and Floor Wax and Polish is needed for your project.
The Concrete Sealers approximated in this calculator are:
- HD6600-MMA Sealer
- HD6525-MMA Sealer
- HD6500 Sealer
One gallon of acid stain will cover approximately 200 sq. feet. We recommend two coats of stain. For a standard application, we suggest one gallon of stain for every 200 sq. feet of surface. If diluted, expand the coverage according to the ratio of water to acid stain dilution. For example, if every one-part acid stain to one part water, your coverage rate for two coats would be 400 sq. feet per gallon. If your project is 1000 sq. feet, you will need 5 gallons of stain to apply two complete coats.
No, we do not cut our stain with water or dilute it. You will find our stains hold as high a mineral load as we can manage to suspend in the acidic liquid for maximum strength, consistency and stain life.
Yes, our stains can be cut with water without affecting the stain’s performance. Cutting the acid stain with water generally lightens the color but does not impede the stain’s ability to react successfully with your concrete surface. Test areas are recommended to determine the correct ratio of water to acid stain for your project. Keep in mind that diluted stain is not effective as neat material.
No. An acid stained surface is dull in appearance and nothing at all like the attractive sealed finish. Sealer protects the acid stained surface from the elements and from water deposits due to run-off and rain. While acid stain offers permanent concrete color, the shades can fade due to exposure to harsh weather conditions. Sealing the surface both highlights the color and protects the finish from wear and tear over time. Depending on weather conditions, sealers used outdoors must be reapplied every 2-4 years.
Acid staining may not be for everyone but most people find the process straightforward and easy to understand. Legacy Industrial provides a detailed How-to Acid Stain document on this website and with every order. If you have questions about your project, contact a decorative concrete professional at 888-652-0333 or by email at Acid staining may not be for everyone but most people find the process straightforward and easy to understand. Legacy Industrial provides a detailed How-to Acid Stain document on this website and with every order. If you have questions about your project, contact a decorative concrete professional at 888-652-0333 or by email at firstname.lastname@example.org
Acid stain is made from naturally occurring minerals and is suspended in an acid/water solution. The colors presented on our color chart are stains at full-strength. Many other colors can be achieved with our acid stains by diluting the product with water. If you want more color options choose our DeltaDye Waterborne Concrete Stain.
No, but some acid stain colors (Black and Coffee Brown) have more odor than others. Regardless of the color you choose, the house should be thoroughly ventilated to the outside during the application process and a mask/goggles should be worn at all times. For indoor applications, particularly for occupied homes or basements, water-based sealer should be used to minimize heavy chemical odors in the home. To err on the side of caution, pregnant women and children should not be present during the staining or sealing process.
Every acid stained floor will look somewhat different as slabs vary from one application to the next. However, within a range and given conditions, each acid stain will produce a predictable, rich hue as described on the color chart. Acid stain is not a paint and contains no pigment. Coloration takes place as a result of a chemical reaction between the concrete and the acid stain; therefore, the content of the concrete plays as significant a role in the process as the acid stain.
After acid staining the concrete, an oddly colored residue forms on the surface. The residue is a by-product of the chemical reaction occurring on the concrete. The residue along with any access color will be removed during the neutralization and cleaning process.
A simple solid plastic pump-up sprayer with a plastic rather than metal tip will suffice. Sprayers can be purchased at most hardware stores. The sprayer should be set to mist when applying the spray but the sprayer can be used to create different effects depending on how the stain is applied. For instance, by holding the wand tip closer to the surface, the applicator can create a “pooled” or “veined” look on the floor.
Acid staining is a permanent alteration of the concrete surface. Once the concrete has been stained, change is possible by adding additional layers acid stain colors or by using another topical dye but it will to some degree remain colored.
Acid stained surfaces exposed to the elements will lose their color over time. Outdoor surfaces must be resealed every 1-2 years. To improve the color of a faded outdoor project, Legacy Industrial offers a tinted sealer to enhance the original surface color. For areas that have experienced very little color fading, resealing with the clear sealer of your choice is the best option.
A, determine what you want to seal and protect such as concrete, clay brick, cinder block, and concrete pavers, natural stones, decorative concrete, stamped concrete, epoxy stones, expose aggregate.
B, define the final look that you are expecting to see after sealer application.
C, determine how often you need or want to re-seal again.
D, to test a sealer correctly it is necessary to pour water over the surface sealed 24 hours after the application. If the concrete does not change color immediately, the sealer is working if the concrete changes color immediately the sealer is not working correctly. Water bidding on the surface of the concrete is and old method to determine if the concrete was seal or not. Color change is what the construction industry uses today, not all sealers bid water on the surface.
E, It is important to mention that there is a direct connection between a sealer's price per gallon and it's performance level. This is important to mention as a certain portion of the populous expects the cheapest product to perform like the most expensive.
It is important to know that there are only about six different types of concrete sealers. These are determining by the technologies that are most frequently used. Each of these sealers has pros and cons and we will attempt to clarify these. The first thing you need to know when selecting a concrete sealer is which category it falls into and then you can evaluate its pros and cons. The first three sealers are considered penetrating sealers and the last three are topical or surface sealers.
1. Silane Concrete Sealers – Silanes penetrate the concrete well and do a fairly good job of sealing the concrete. The concrete must be thoroughly saturated with a high solid Silane to be adequately sealed. The main problem in the industry is that the products are used with too low of a spread ratio and are generally do not have high solid (active ingredient) content. These are both ways to save money on the product and increase the installer’s profit margin. Ideally, up to three saturations of the concrete are needed to achieve an adequate seal.
Silanes - have other serious disadvantages. 1) If they are spread to thinly, the hydrocarbon chain (organic compounds) can remain active in the concrete. This means that if any other hydrocarbon such as oil, gasoline, diesel fuel, etc. is spilled on the concrete – a PERMANENT stain is attached to the open hydrocarbon chain. The only way to remove this stain is to remove the concrete. 2) Total saturation required for an adequate seal will darken the concrete. 3) If applied properly (with thorough saturation and high solids), Silanes are very costly. 4) Silanes are slow to react so they tend to move further into the substrate leaving the surface exposed. This is why minimum of two applications are recommended for a good seal.
Siloxanes – (Silax-Seal) The new technology in Silane sealers are Siloxane sealers, which is a modified version of a Silane sealer. The primary advantage is that it was design to seal the new or old surfaces such as concrete blocks, expose aggregate, cinder blocks, and clay brick and natural stones or very pours surfaces. It has little or no change in color of the treated material and it protects for a longer period. To seal correctly with a Siloxane you are require to do two applications to saturate the substrate correctly. Siloxanes due an amazing job fighting stains from mildew and fungus as well.
2. Silicate Concrete Sealers (densifier: HD-37) - These are chemically reactive, penetrating concrete sealers that permanently bind to the silicates in the concrete. The concrete must be removed in order to remove the sealer. In addition, silicates have very small molecules and as such go very deep into the concrete. Excellent for dust proofing and hardening of the surface.
3. Siliconate Sealers (densifier: HD-39, Silax-Seal) – Like silicate sealers, these sealers work by creating a permanent chemical change in the concrete, forming a new, sealed chemistry. Siliconates have larger molecules and offer more surface protection. Siliconates are fast reactive when they meet the concrete therefore remaining at the top of the substrate. Siliconate sealers are the perfect choice when your primary objectives are reducing moisture absorption, reducing freeze/thaw damage and stain penetration. Siliconates dry within the concrete, thereby not changing the appearance or the texture of the concrete surface. They can also be used as a cure for freshly poured concrete. They cure by retarding moisture but still allow the concrete to breath. Siliconates have multiple applications – they can be used on bare concrete walls or stucco to keep moisture from soaking through paint and to allow the paint to last longer. Siliconates can be used on sidewalks, driveways, parking lots, etc. to reduce cracking, staining, and freeze/thaw damage. Overall, this is the sealer we believe works the best for the majority of applications on broom finish or trowel finish concrete.
4. Nano-Technology StainGuards (HD40 Concrete StainGuard) - Excellent protection against organic and some inorganic stain-makers. A unique application process causes this product to create a very thin film on the surface of the concrete. Should always be sprayed onto the surface, worked and spread evenly using a micro-fiber pad/applicator and once air-dried, burnished to fully adhere it to the floor surface. Once applied correctly this product will repel oil based stain-makers.
4. Silicone Concrete Sealers – These sealers exhibit high water and oil repellant properties. However, silicones have a very short life, are UV unstable (they break down more rapidly in bright light), and are a surface sealer and not hold up well to wear and tear. If you use a silicone sealer, you need to reapply it frequently to maintain its protective properties (can be as often as every few months when exposed to the sun). (Siloxane – a variation of silicone). Remember that silicone based sealers will repel other coatings as well (acrylics, epoxies, urethanes).
5. Acrylic Sealers – (HD6525-MMA/6600MMA) These sealers are widely used in the industry and are primarily solvent-based products. HD6525-MMA/6600-MMA is a hybrid product. It performs much better than most solvent sealers due to it's unique chemistry which was pioneered in Germany. Generally, these sealers will break-down naturally if used outside, which is desired. They exhibit better much better performance when used interior. Acrylic sealers form a film on top of the concrete and thus protect it from water absorption. Two light coats of sealer about 12 hours apart are recommended for maximum longevity. Three coats can be applied if desired and will extend the useable life of the sealer. Interior life can be extended to infinity with proper cleaning and waxing.
6. Epoxy, Urethane and PAP Concrete Sealers (SEC Sealer, HD356VOC, Nohr-S) – These sealers provide high chemical and abrasion resistance and provide deep color and gloss to decorative or raw concrete. They require more preparation and more investment but they go a long way – up to 350 square feet per gallon(urethanes). Some epoxies and most urethanes offer protection from sulfuric acid, brake fluid, gasoline, and/or high heat, other offer humidity mitigation. Always look at the ASTM test data on each particular product to determine its resistance and durability and intended use. Nohr-S Polyurea is a new innovation which uses only one component and one product to create a complete flooring system (very easy to use and navigate).
Sealing the concrete is a necessary step that preserves the newly colored surface. It is inadvisable to leave any colored concrete project exposed to the elements for more than a few months before sealing. Depending on exposure to the elements, sealer must be replaced every 2-4 years.
Legacy Industrial provides a calculator that calculates the amount of sealer needed for every project. For most projects, approximately one gallon of sealer is needed for every 200-300 sq. feet or five gallons for 1000 sq. feet to apply the recommended two to three thin coats of sealer. Two coats are almost always required.
For most outdoor applications, topical sealers will last for 2 to 3 years. Exposure to the elements does affect the overall performance of both the water and solvent-based sealers. However, proper maintenance is crucial to protecting colored concrete and is the only maintenance cost associated with decorative concrete. Given the difference between weather conditions across the US, check your outdoor surface thoroughly once per year to look for uneven wearing. If you do have exposed areas, spot sealing is also an option. For indoor applications, sealer should be waxed with either a residential or commercial wax, this will dramatically extend the life of the sealer. Epoxies, Xtreme 80 and Nohr-S Polyurea will last for very long periods of time, possibly longer than you will own your property!
USE EXTREME CAUTION AND USE PROPER PPE- SEE YOUR ETCH FOR PROPER PPE!! Etching solution:
Type of Acid: Out of the variety of acids available for etching concrete (muriatic, sulfamic, phosphoric, organic salts or citric), muriatic (hydrochloric) and phosphoric acids are normally the products of choice. Muriatic acid, also known as hydrochloric acid, should only be used where chlorides are permitted.
Container/Acid Ratio: Acid resistant containers (plastic) should be used for mixing and spreading acids. It is essential to calculate the dilution of acid to water since commercial containers may vary in concentration. Typically, muriatic acid is usually mixed at a ratio of one part acid to three parts water in order to reach a required level to adequately etch bare concrete.
Determining Acid Strength: The best method for determining muriatic acid concentration, is to test the substrate with a very dilute solution, then add acid to the container as required until a strong bubbling action is observed in the test. This will confirm the amount of acid concentration needed for the project. One gallon of the acid mixture should be allowed for each 50-75 sq. ft. of rough concrete or each 75-100 sq. ft. of smooth concrete.
Dampen the Concrete:
Pre-Wet the Concrete: The concrete surface should be pre-wet with clean, potable water. The substrate should be uniformly wet without any puddling or standing water. The concrete should remain wet until the acid solution is applied. Note: The area being treated should be done in small sections so the concrete does not dry out before applying and working the acid.
Apply the Acid Solution:
Application of the Acid: The acid solution should be applied uniformly over the surface of the concrete. An excellent means of application is with a plastic garden sprinkling container. The fresh acid should be deposited in a consistent manner over the entire surface so the etching results will be uniform. The acid solution should not be dumped onto the floor and swept over the surface. Acid spread in this manner will be partially spent and will not yield uniform results. The acid solution will begin bubbling indicating it is reacting to the surface layer of concrete. Any areas failing to produce the bubbling action would indicate the area has contaminates that are preventing the acid from reaching the concrete. It will be necessary to properly clean and re-etch or prepare these areas by mechanical means. The acid solution should be scrubbed thoroughly with a stiff bristled brush during the application process.
Allow Acid time to React:
The acid solution should be allowed to remain on the concrete as long as the bubbling continues (usually 2-10 minutes, however, this would depend on the floor conditions and acid concentration used for the project). The floor should not be allowed to dry out during the acid etching process.
Rinse the Concrete:
When the bubbling action of the acid solution slows down, spray the area with a generous amount of water or first spray a solution of one cup of baking soda in one gallon of water to neutralize the acid and then flush with water. For proper disposal of all liquids, use a wet vac if no drains are present. The surface should have a uniform texture of medium grit sandpaper, if not; the acid etching process must be repeated. The substrate should be flushed two or three times while scrubbing with a stiff bristle broom in order to remove any existing powdery residue. To avoid possible adhesion failure, vacuum any residue or white powder after the surface is dry (before coating).
Neutralize the Concrete as Required:
If muriatic acid is used for etching, check the pH of the final rinse water on the wet concrete with pH paper. An ideal pH reading is 7.0 (neutral); however, a range of 6.0-9.0 is usually acceptable for most coatings, unless otherwise stated. A pH range below 6.0 would indicate acid residue remains in the pores of the concrete and must be neutralized. A strong ammonia solution or two pounds of baking soda in five gallons of water will generally neutralize the concrete in one application. The neutralizing solution should be spread uniformly over the substrate in the same manner as the acid solution. The surface should remain wet with the solution for at least ten minutes before agitating and flushing with water as recommended when etching the substrate. The pH should be re-checked and the neutralization process repeated if the pH of the rinse waster is still below 6.0. For a pH reading over 9.0, repeat the rinsing process until the pH is at an acceptable level.
Dry the Concrete Thoroughly before coating:
No matter what coating system is selected, it is important the moisture in the concrete is low enough that it will not affect the application, cure or performance of the coating. An ideal moisture content would be below 12% for most coatings and below 15% for acrylic paints and sealers. Should a moisture meter be unavailable, ASTM Test Method D 4263-83 should be followed to determine moisture content. This is the Standard Method for Indicating Moisture in Concrete by taping sheets of minimum 4 mil thick polyethylene plastic, at least 18 by 18 inches square, onto the concrete with 2-inch wide duct tape. A test patch should be applied for each 500 square feet of concrete. These test patches should be allowed to remain in place at least 16 hours before removing to check for moisture on the back of the plastic and concrete area being tested. This method is not an exact measurement of the moisture content; however, it will determine the relative amount of free moisture in the concrete and whether or not to postpone the coatings application. Warm, dry air blown over the surface will hasten drying of the concrete. Using fans alone will speed up the dry time.
Legacy Industrial's "Nohr-S Polyurea" is a premium, high performing, single component, fast drying, floor sealer/coating. It offers the convenience of "floor paint" with the performance characteristics of PolyAspartic. The secret is the formula that we purchased from our friends in Scandinavia. Before being utilized as a floor coating by Legacy Industrial Corp. The Nohr formula was only being used to coat steel marine buoys, concrete oil platforms and other marine structures found in the North Atlantic Ocean. It is used in this manner still. We have plans to formulate additional products using this formula, so look for them in the future!! We are happy that Nohr-S lives up to our mantra of "Heavy Duty Floor Solutions". Now available in kit form (clear and pigmented).